The oven
A dome of broken tile
The oven is the first thing you see: a dome skinned in broken majolica, cobalt and sunflower and white, a couple of steps from the nearest table. Its floor holds heat all evening, which is what a Neapolitan base needs. A very short bake at a very high temperature, so the rim puffs and blisters before the middle dries out.
It is unforgiving, because nothing hides in ninety seconds. The compliment guests keep paying is that the dough itself has flavour. Order the plainest thing on the list and you will know inside one slice.
Around it: yellow chairs, grey tables, a metal sun on the wall, half a scooter set into the service counter, and the sign above, a painted plate with Pulcinella holding a pizza on his lap.